Thomas Lightburn's 2240 Teardown
(Click on any image to enlarge)
Sorry, I
don't have any pictures of this gun as original, but I haven't seen anyone post
the take down process lately so here it is:
Short barreled 2240:
Grips inletted from 1" oak with a radial arm saw and lots of passes, not the best tool for the job. The rest of the grips were done with a coping saw, hand rasps, a dremmel with sanding drums and sandpaper. Tru-Oil finish after rubbing with tung oil.
Take the screws out of the grips:
Take the side plate off the grip frame:
This is how your safety spring and detent ball end up on the other side of the room. This gun doesn't have the safety because I've only been shooting it at a range (the real one or my basement "range"); my guns for taking outdoors I leave the safeties. If you want to work on the trigger, sear, and spring, leave the cover on the grip frame until you take the whole thing off the tube. Just undo the two screws holding the grip frame onto the tube. I use a slotted screw driver and tend to make some scratches around the rear screw. I'll bet most people have a better method. I switch out breeches and barrels more often then messing with the trigger, so you can undo the screws in the barrel band with a 5/64" hex wrench, the breech screw under the bolt with a 0.05" hex wrench, and unscrew the slotted screw in the rear sight:
You can lift off the barrel and breech and you'll see the transfer port sticking up from the tube.
Now is a good time to play with the barrel. This one I cut down with a hacksaw with the barrel in a vise and filed the face of the barrel down so it was square to the bore. This gun isn't done, so I just took off the burr on the
muzzle rather than grinding out a new crown. I used valve grinding compound from the auto parts store and a big ball bearing:
If you take out the transfer port and take out the rubber gasket, too, you see into the valve exhaust port:
the short end of the transfer port goes into the gasket. Depending on the order of dissasembly, your rear tube cap will come off and the hammer spring will come out, the rear grip frame screw and the rear sight screw hold the rear tube cap in place. Under the cap is the spring and hammer. Remove the post from the top of the hammer by sliding it back to the rear until it centers in the circular part of the cut out in the tube. Pull the pin out and slide the hammer out the rear of the tube:
Unscrew the slotted screw in the bottom of the tube that holds the valve in place and slide it out the co2 cart loading port end of the tube:
The valve opens up, I use water pump pliers or a padded vise and pliers, to unscrew it. You can see the o-ring on the threads, the (stock) valve spring, and the piercing pin/valve seal.:
Here's a picture of the seal where the co2 cart seals:
You can reassemble it in reverse of the takedown. I hardly ever oil my co2 cart tips and I still had to clean out this valve of gunk, so there's no need to overdo it. Let me know if you have any questions.
Ted
Metro Boston